Over 120 years of history for a place, Taverna Moriggi, which, miraculously, has always known how to renew itself over time until 2021, when Paolo Anzil and Giuseppe Davide La Grotteria started writing a new chapter made of (Dadaist) art and dishes invented with flair and love for tradition.
There are very few places in the contemporary metropolis that manage to preserve their soul through the centuries and even fewer that do so by remaining “young”. Taverna Moriggi, in this sense, is truly unique: born in the 1900s as an inn in the coach shelter of the building that houses it, it survived the bombings of the Second World War and the advent of modern Milan unscathed.
Until 2021, when Paolo Anzil and Giuseppe Davide La Grotteria, friends with important experiences behind them such as, respectively, Enrico Bartolini at Mudec and Claudio Sadler, let themselves be captivated by the charm of the large Gothic vaults, the coffered ceilings, and the aristocratic “old Milan” soul of this historic restaurant located in the heart of the Cinque Vie.
We fell in love with this place with a long history, proud to reinvent it once again.
(Paolo Anzil and Giuseppe Davide La Grotteria, chefs & owners)
The ideal place to host their personal “idea of cuisine” made of respect for the Italian tradition benevolently twisted by their creativity. A concept that is also reflected in the new name chosen for the restaurant, DaDa in Taverna, which betrays the common passion of Paolo and Davide for Dadaism and Surrealism; a metaphor in the kitchen of elements that are only apparently illogical but which reveal their magic when completing each dish.
A few examples of this are the Amberjack Tataki alla Milanese, a recipe that comes from the union of two different cooking methods, grilling and pan-frying in butter, which give life to a second course that recalls a traditional veal cutlet but which, surprisingly, reveals the delicate fish soul on the palate, and the Due spaghi, delicious cold spaghetti in Franciacorta sauce, Oscietra caviar, egg yolk and oxalis.
Even the interior reflects the philosophy of Paolo and Davide, who wanted to keep the charm of history intact, while bringing it into the present with character. To do this, they relied on Andrea Castrignano and the ID Consulting studio who, alongside the original details of the Taverna, added a new color palette – from the octane of the walls to the aubergine with which the old straw tavern chairs were upholstered –, a touch of Dadaist art and the splendid graphics created ad hoc by artist Alex Prosperi.
The most original ones, such as the vintage telephone with the “lobster-shaped” handset, have been used to decorate the dish set that is the protagonist of the beautiful mise en place, which also includes lovely doilies handmade by Davide’s wife and marble cutlery holders.
The service is fantastic, coordinated by the director Michael Corso, always happy to propose original wine labels that will make your lunch or dinner even more special, thanks to the possibility of tasting all the dishes in half portions.
Innovation therefore, but with a constant that has never changed at the Taverna in 120 years: here you feel good at any time of the day, from lunch to after dinner, being able to choose a perfect “corner” for every need: the outdoor area for an evening aperitif, the table in front of the open kitchen to enjoy the “acrobatics” of the chefs, the lounge room for an artfully prepared cocktail or the ancient tavern for truly “Secrets” events and tastings (but just follow the restaurant’s social networks to be informed about them).
The original name of the Tavern with 2 “g”, curiously as it is located in Via Morigi, is due to a simple transcription error in the registers of the Municipality and never corrected.
DaDa in Taverna
Via Morigi 8
Tel. +39 02 36755232
Starters: from 24 euro, half portion 16 euro
First courses: from 26 euro, half portions from 16 euro
Main courses: from 26 euro, half portions from 18 euro
Cocktails: from 10 euro