"From lemon ice cream to eternal snow" quoted an advertisement of the Rhaetian Railway. A phrase that well sums up the different souls of Valtellina, a rich and varied territory that ranges from cultivated terraces and vineyards, kissed by an almost coastal microclimate, up to impervious mountainous areas covered in woods.
Valtellina which, together with Valchiavenna, constitutes the province of Sondrio, bordered to the north by the Rhaetian Alps, a breath away from Lake Como and a stone’s throw from the enchanted Swiss valleys, leads us back to the bucolic idea of the Italian Pre-Alps, between expanses of apple trees and vineyards, wooden huts and delightful typical shops.
Its history is important, due to its privileged position which, especially in the 16th century, made it an important and rich link with Northern Europe, through Switzerland. An aspect that leads us, in our itinerary, to reveal a “secrets” aspect, made up of marvelous Renaissance palaces decorated without sparing expense and elegant charming restaurants.
Going from West to East, our journey begins from the center of Chiavenna, the “capital” of Valchiavenna, where you can take a nice walk along the Mera river, up to the brand new panoramic footbridge, inaugurated in 2022, with a view of the suggestive houses built against the medieval walls commissioned by Ludovico il Moro at the end of the 15th century.
Valchiavenna is, in fact, famous for being the homeland of crotti, the typical cellars and caves dug into the rock where, thanks to the Sòrel, a fresh breeze, cured meats, but also wines and cheeses age to perfection. Here is revealed the mystery of the goodness of the famous brisaola – which here is called with the “i”, distinguishing it from the Valtellinese one – or the delicious goat violin, made with the thigh and shoulder of Orobic goats.
Having MatLab prepare a gourmet basket for you (remember the Vertemate Passito wine with biscuits to savor in front of the fireplace), in the evening you can book at Chalet Res Albert: 4 ancient 18th-century barns transformed into charming chalets. Located at an altitude of 1200 meters and about 8 km from the center of Chiavenna, which can be reached along a small paved road immersed in the woods or, in case of snow, accompanied by snowmobile, they are perfect for a romantic evening in front of the fire, away from everything and everyone.
After waking up with a coffee and biscuits and a panoramic walk in the surroundings, you can go and visit the Acqua Fraggia Waterfall Park in Borgonuovo which enchanted also Leonardo da Vinci who wrote about them in his “Codex Atlanticus”.
From there, you can book a visit to Roberto Lucchinetti’s workshop in Prosto, an atelier museum dedicated to the working of soapstone, a precious mineral thanks to its ability to accumulate heat and intrinsic beauty, traditionally extracted in Valmalenco and Valchiavenna.
Also nearby is Palazzo Vertemate Franchi, the most beautiful dating back to the 16th century in the entire Alpine arc and the only one to be saved in Piuro after the landslide that completely devastated “the Pompeii of the Alps” in 1618. A jewel Renaissance embellished with frescoes, ceilings with refined wooden sculptures and precious decorations of unprecedented magnificence thanks to the economic power achieved by the Vertemate Franchi family.
Time, now, to taste the best of Valtellina cuisine. In fact, the Crotasc restaurant is located about 10 minutes away, the first crotto in Valchiavenna to open to the public which, thanks to the solid leadership of the Prevostini family, has now become an elegant charming restaurant where you can also taste the excellent wines from the winery Mamete Prevostini.
The next stop is Sondrio, about an hour’s drive from Chiavenna, straight towards its heart, the elegant Piazza Garibaldi, built during the Austrian domination, where the Grand Hotel della Posta is located. The structure, which has kept intact all the charm of its long history, since its opening in 1862, once an obligatory stop for the carriages that passed on the ancient Strada Regina, is still today the pulsating fulcrum of the social and cultural history of Valtellina.
Perfect starting point, thanks to the excellent facilities, restaurant and spa area with swimming pool, to discover the surroundings, the concierge service will be able to advise you and book the best experiences in the area. Like a visit to the famous Nebbiolo Terraces and, in particular, to the Convent of San Lorenzo which, dating back to 1100, houses the only vineyard in the valley protected by ancient walls and today devoted to the production of Valtellina Superiore Sassella DOCG.
About 30 minutes from Sondrio, to be exact in little Tirano, is one of the most beautiful attractions in the world. It is the Italian departure station of the Bernina red train, the highest railway line in Europe, one of the steepest and with the greatest difference in height in the world, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
From here, a wonderful itinerary of about two hours (one way) begins during which the red train will cross prairies and bucolic Swiss villages skirting, as it climbs in altitude, lakes, forests, frozen expanses, a kite surfer’s paradise, and snow-capped peaks, up to the elegant St. Moritz station in Switzerland.
And from here, off to new Secrets itineraries, to discover the Engadine or, returning to Tirano, the ancient Romas baths of Bormio.
Useful Info
Valchiavenna Turismo
Tel. +39 0343 37485
consorzioturistico@valchiavenna.com
Sunrise Valtellina Hotels
(also for bookings Trenino del Bernina)
info@valtellinahotels.it
Tel. +39 335 5475615
